Country Region: France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune
Appellation: Bourgogne Aligoté
From old vines planted 1950’s to 1970’s in the commune of Meursault in the lieu-dit of Les Penteaux. Aged 100% in tank this year and bottled in August 2019. This shows excellent intensity of flavour and character showing ripe orchard fruits with the fine lifted floral aspect of Aligote. Notes of pear and even apricot indicate the depth and ripeness apparent here. Still fresh and lovely yet with terrific texture and surprising depth. An excellent introduction to any tasting and very promising for what is to follow. A great discovery.
Domaine Fabien Coche
Fourth-generation vigneron Fabien Coche took over his family’s domaine in 2005. Hailing from one of Burgundy's most famed families (Coche-Dury was part of the same domaine until 1940 and is run by his cousin Raphael), Fabien has quickly become the Coche of the current generation making the most waves. His enviable vineyard holdings total nearly 11 hectares spread across Meursault, Monthelie, Pommard and Auxey-Duresses.
Fabien Coche’s father is a first cousin of Jean-Francois Coche-Dury and it is not so long ago that the two domaines shared almost identical labels. Fabien started working with his father in 1998 and since 2005 has taken over the running and now has his own his own distinctive labels.
Organic farming practices here since 1998 for the 40 plots of vines that the family owns and now with 20 vintages experience. Average vine age is impressive here with more than 60% of vines over 60 years old.
Stylistically the wines at this estate are incredibly pure with little (if any) discernable mark from the hand of the winemaker with new oak at a low 25% and a notable percentage of larger format barrels. I would place the style of his wines in-between that of his cousins Coche-Dury and Roulot. Fabiens wines have the acidity and purity of Roulot without the trademark SO2 which tends to mark Roulots wines when young, and also without the extravagant luxuriant texture that so defines the wines of Coche-Dury. Here we simply find real old vine depth delivering some of the purest expressions of each vineyard site that we have seen right the way through the range from Aligote right to the very top.