Clos Thierriere Vouvray Sec Les Murs 2021

Variety: Chenin Blanc
Country, Region: France, Loire Valley
Appellation: Vouvray

From a small plot, less than one hectare, on very thin soil directly over tuffeau limestone in the lieu-dit of La Follière. The vines here are 80-100 years old and worked only by horse. The fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, then transferred to a mix of seasoned oak barriques and larger formats for 20 months maturation. Bottled in May 2023.

Les Murs is named for the tuffeau walls that are visible when you are on the plot and looking west at one of the appellation's hillsides.

'Youthful and restrained this cuvee willl benefit from further ageing and is destined for a long lafe given careful cool cellaring. This limestone terroir brings freshness and structure to the notable depth of beautiful old vines fruit. Hints of citrus blossom, beeswax and taut green apple fruit that wants time to evolve and express. A White Burgundy glass is recommended for this.'

During the pandemic, twin brothers with a business background fell in love with winemaking under the tutelage of Vouvray legend Vincent Carême. And without further delay, Guillaume and Baptiste Frey, themselves from nearby Amboise, purchased 12 hectares of venerable vineyard parcels in the commune of Vernou-Sur-Brenne, just five kilometres upstream from the town of Vouvray itself. Moreover, their first few vintages have been remarkably successful, so much so that we are delighted to welcome Clos Thierrière to the Vintage & Vine portfolio, with this our first shipment.

‘It is always a delight to meet newly arrived vignerons, especially in prestigious appellations such as Vouvray. Even more so when you get two for the price of one; Clos Thierrière, in Vouvray, is the only domaine I know in the Loire Valley – or indeed anywhere – to be run by twins.

Established in 2021 this small domaine is run by twins Baptiste and Guillaume Frey who were not born into a winemaking family but after working harvest in 2020 in Anjou decided to become vignerons and took over a domaine in the commune of Vernou sur Brenne to the east of Vouvray. Born locally in Amboise and having studied in Reims and in Paris, the brothers have 12 hectares of vines, most of which are situated either side of the Rue Neuve and are thus well back from the première côte in Vernou-sur-Brenne, which is east of the commune of Vouvray. There is a small parcel near the première côte, though, just above Vincent Carême’s Le Clos.

The soils are therefore predominantly clay and silty clay, with limestone elements less dominant. The viticultural philosophy centres around sustainability and the new watchword in viticulture, biodiversity (apologies if you were expecting me to say ‘regenerative’). Having previously been managed using conventional methods, Baptiste and Guillaume brought the use of herbicides and pesticides to a halt in 2021. They will take this further, but at the moment it is too early to discuss organic certification.

[The various parcels are Certified Organic or Certified Organic-in-Conversion as of the 2024 vintage – Ed.]

For the moment, then, this remains an interesting new addition to the Vouvray wine scene, and certainly a domaine worth watching.’
Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor, October 2023.