Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Rouge 2022

Variety: Pinot Noir
Country Region: France, Burgundy, Cote-de-Beaune
Appellation: Meursault

Coming from 3 parcels ranging from high, middle and lower on the slope close to the border of Pommard in the lieu-dits of Pre de Manche, Dresolles and Peutes Vignes from vines averaging 40 years old. While Meursault is well known for its white wines approximately 5% of the appellation is planted to Pinot Noir (all on the border of Volnay (indeed some of the wines from these vineyards can be classified and labelled as Volnay (like Santenots du Milieu from Comte Lafon). This northern part of Meursault has a vein of limestone marl which is perfect terroir for Pinot Noir. Like all the red wines of this estate this is vinified very gently using the chapeau immerge technique of very gentle extraction which gives very delicate and precise tannins. Using 25% whole-bunch the wine shows lovely raspberry lift with very fine and complex aromas. Very refined tannins with a gentle floating feel and great finesse and length. Like all the reds at this estate this is bottled before the harvest to retain the freshness and elegance inherent in all his red wines. Tiny production and great rarity as Fabien is together with his cousins Coche-Dury one of the few to make Meursault rouge. Well worth seeking out.

Fourth-generation vigneron Fabien Coche took over his family’s domaine in 2005. Hailing from one of Burgundy's most famed families (Coche-Dury was part of the same domaine until 1940 and is run by his cousin Raphael), Fabien has quickly become the Coche of the current generation making the most waves. His enviable vineyard holdings total nearly 11 hectares spread across Meursault, Monthelie, Pommard and Auxey-Duresses.

Fabien Coche’s father is a first cousin of Jean-Francois Coche-Dury and it is not so long ago that the two domaines shared almost identical labels. Fabien started working with his father in 1998 and since 2005 has taken over the running and now has his own his own distinctive labels.

Organic farming practices here since 1998 for the 40 plots of vines that the family owns and now with 20 vintages experience. Average vine age is impressive here with more than 60% of vines over 60 years old.

Stylistically the wines at this estate are incredibly pure with little (if any) discernable mark from the hand of the winemaker with new oak at a low 25% and a notable percentage of larger format barrels. I would place the style of his wines in-between that of his cousins Coche-Dury and Roulot. Fabiens wines have the acidity and purity of Roulot without the trademark SO2 which tends to mark Roulots wines when young, and also without the extravagant luxuriant texture that so defines the wines of Coche-Dury. Here we simply find real old vine depth delivering some of the purest expressions of each vineyard site that we have seen right the way through the range from Aligote right to the very top.