Lucien Muzard Pommard Les Cras Vieilles Vignes 2022

Variety: Pinot Noir
Country Region: France, Burgundy, Cote-de-Beaune
Appellation: Pommard

Les Cras comes from the word ‘craie’ which translates as lime and is a relatively low-lying vineyard towards the border with Volnay. From a small 0.5 ha parcel of low-yielding vines planted in 1922, Les Cras produces wines with a densely concentrated palate, marked by sweet blueberry and plum fruit, fine yet powerful tannins and a long minerally finish.

‘Made from 90 year old vines. Medium purple with a lighter rim. A little touch of new wood. The ripeness of the fruit and the age of the vines carries this over the structure of a Pommard, though that is still visible at the back. The energy is impressive. Thoroughly enjoyable even in the medium term. Drink from 2027-2032.’ (89-91 points) Jasper Morris M.W., October 2023.

Nine generations of Muzards precede Claude and Herve, who today control Domaine Lucien Muzard across 16 ha of vineyards in Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and Pommard. The family can trace its roots back to 1645, but it was not until the two sons, Claude and Herve took over the domaine from Lucien in 1995 that it began bottling at the estate rather than selling to negociants. Today 85% of the production is red wine but the white wines are gaining in stature with several key premier cru parcels in Santenay being replanted with Chardonnay. Santenay borders Chassagne Montrachet to the north adjoining notable premier crus such as Morgeots, Les Embazees and Les Baudines. Clearly there is potential for white wines with much limestone apparent in a complex series of fractured geological faults where the Cote d'Or ends and turns the corner towards Maranges signalling the end of the Cote d'Or slope. Santenay contains a great variety of soil differences and vineyard expositions, the potential of which deserves discovery.

Reducing vine yields and adoption of some modern wine-making techniques has resulted in spotlessly pure, great value Burgundy. They started using small bins for harvesting, a vibrating sorting table and conveyor belts rather than pumps to keep crushing to an absolute minimum as well as acquiring a new temperature controlled fermentation facility with new wooden vats and a new precision controlled press. In 2005 they began managing the vineyard organically and ultimately gained certification for biodynamic farming in 2011. Following the incessant rains of spring 2012 however they relinquished this certification and today follow a lutte raisonee, or sustainable farming path.

They continue to plough their rows and shun any use of herbicides or pesticides, let alone chemical fertilizers. In the winery these days, more whole bunches are included, typically about a third, while there are no additions of yeast or enzymes. In tandem with the move to more whole-bunch, the extraction regime has moved away from punch-downs towards a gentler remontage (pump-over) approach, while elevage is moving towards both larger oak and a subtler new-oak influence. Indeed for the first time in vintage 2015, two large foudres were included in the elevage of the Maladiere. The reds are bottled unfined and with only a coarse filtration as required.