Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône Le Poutet 2021 magnum

’80% Grenache (av age 40 yrs in 2012, youngest 2004, 1992, oldest 1920s), 7.5% Syrah (1985), 7.5% Mourvèdre (1985, a recently rented plot), 5% Carignan (1950s) ... from near Maucoil, Quartier Champovin, Boislauzon, sandy, clay-limestone, some galet stones soils, light crush, whole bunch 15-20 day fermentation, daily pumping overs, press wine added, concrete vat raised 18 months, fined, unfiltered, up to 50,000 b.

(vat) medium depth red; the nose gives a happy twinning of mulberry and raspberry fruit, with an appealing floral-pot-pourri under tone that brings grace. This is Châteauneuf bearing its true finesse. The palate concords with that, is harmonious and well rounded, carries a neat freshness with garrigue herbs on the second half. The purity of the gently perfumed fruit is very appealing. It has the feel of soils with sand present, just a thought. From 2025, decant. 2046-48 Oct 2022’ 4(+1) stars, John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com, October 2022.

Domaine Charvin

Laurent Charvin runs this small family estate located in the north of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The domaine has vineyard holdings of just 8 hectares in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and 13 hectares in Cotes du Rhone. The average age of the vineyards is over 50 years old with the oldest being nearly 80 years of age. Laurent Charvin describes his vineyard site as being cool for Chateauneuf as their vines are mostly planted on sandy north facing slopes. Certified organic.

Charvin produces finely styled Grenache based wines showing great depth and finesse (approximately 80% Grenache for each wine with small amounts of Vacaresse and Mourvedre as well as small amounts of Carignan and Bourboulenc for the Cotes du Rhone). Winemaking is traditional with no de-stemming and all ageing is done in cement tanks. No wood is used for the elevage of either wine. There are no secrets here, simply old vines, very low yields and minimal winemaking intervention. The Cotes du Rhone is regularly rated as one of the very best from this area and perhaps it is not surprising as the vines for this cuvee border directly on to the appellation for Chateauneuf du Pape in the northern sector where they are located.