Variety: Chenin Blanc
Country, Region: France, Loire Valley
Appellation: Vouvray
From a single plot of more than 1.5 hectares on flinty-clay soils in the lieu-dit Pierre Rousses. The vines here are about 30 years of age and the fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, followed by seven months maturation in tank on fine lees. Bottled 29 March 2023, with less than 2 g/L of residual sugar.
13.5 % alc/vol, 5.5 g/L TA, 1.9 g/L RS.
'From a 1.6-hectare parcel of vines in Les Pierres Rousses, the vines rooted in flinty soils over deeper limestone. It was vinified in fibreglass cuve and is due to be bottled in March 2023. It is vinified dry, with less than 1 g/l residual sugar. I find a charming and fragrant nose, with traces of orange zest. The palate is gently textural, with threads of green apple and pear, a chalky freshness and good acidity for the vintage. I find a nice energy to this, along with a lightly peppery note, all gently perfumed with lime blossom and white flowers. The alcohol is said to be about 13.5%.' (89-91) points, Chris Kissack, Wine Doctor, October 2023.
During the pandemic, twin brothers with a business background fell in love with winemaking under the tutelage of Vouvray legend Vincent Carême. And without further delay, Guillaume and Baptiste Frey, themselves from nearby Amboise, purchased 12 hectares of venerable vineyard parcels in the commune of Vernou-Sur-Brenne, just five kilometres upstream from the town of Vouvray itself. Moreover, their first few vintages have been remarkably successful, so much so that we are delighted to welcome Clos Thierrière to the Vintage & Vine portfolio, with this our first shipment.
‘It is always a delight to meet newly arrived vignerons, especially in prestigious appellations such as Vouvray. Even more so when you get two for the price of one; Clos Thierrière, in Vouvray, is the only domaine I know in the Loire Valley – or indeed anywhere – to be run by twins.
Established in 2021 this small domaine is run by twins Baptiste and Guillaume Frey who were not born into a winemaking family but after working harvest in 2020 in Anjou decided to become vignerons and took over a domaine in the commune of Vernou sur Brenne to the east of Vouvray. Born locally in Amboise and having studied in Reims and in Paris, the brothers have 12 hectares of vines, most of which are situated either side of the Rue Neuve and are thus well back from the première côte in Vernou-sur-Brenne, which is east of the commune of Vouvray. There is a small parcel near the première côte, though, just above Vincent Carême’s Le Clos.
The soils are therefore predominantly clay and silty clay, with limestone elements less dominant. The viticultural philosophy centres around sustainability and the new watchword in viticulture, biodiversity (apologies if you were expecting me to say ‘regenerative’). Having previously been managed using conventional methods, Baptiste and Guillaume brought the use of herbicides and pesticides to a halt in 2021. They will take this further, but at the moment it is too early to discuss organic certification.
[The various parcels are Certified Organic or Certified Organic-in-Conversion as of the 2024 vintage – Ed.]
For the moment, then, this remains an interesting new addition to the Vouvray wine scene, and certainly a domaine worth watching.’
Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor, October 2023.