Champagne Gosset Celebris Extra Brut 2012

2012 is just the 9th vintage made of this cuvee since the inaugural 1995 vintage. Predominantly from Chardonnay Grand Crus at 70 % with 30 % of Pinot Noir in the blend. The villages of Avize, Aÿ, Ambonnay and Cramant are at the core of the blend and it was bottled with 5.5 grams/litre of dosage.

White gold, with a very fine, persistent mousse. Exciting aromatic restraint on first sniff: exquisite, very finely pointed and precise, initially a subtle weave of fleurs blanches and sweetpeas, confit lemon, and light patisserie scents; even a faint whiff of vanilla (though not from any wood). Elegant on entry, finely taut but not tight, the tension of a perfectly tuned violin string, then gradually melting, softening, through an ethereal, flourishing, gracefully scintillating finish of great, gentle persistence. After a little time in the glass, a fragrance pleasingly reminiscent of great white Burgundy, with lime and linden; and after a little longer still, spicier, white-pepper notes. 

After a first glass, Odilon transfers the wine into a decanter the same shape as the beautiful bottle in its original 1760 guise—a progression he recommends for the resulting “change of dimension.” Now the nose, not surprisingly, is broader, deeper, more open, the fruit (and even positive vegetal) notes more pronounced, the floral notes more exotic. What’s astonishing and much more surprising is that this expansion entails no loss of focus, intensity, or purity—indeed, the steely core shines even more brightly, revealed as the layers of the surrounding wrapping separate out and unfurl. The wine’s gastronomic potential was showcased by the meticulously prepared food at Ekstedt, and Odilon expects this 2012 Celebris to age as well as the currently spectacular 2002. 97 points, World of Fine Wine, Neil Beckett, December 2023.

Established since 1584, Gosset is one of the smallest Grande Marque Champagne producers. Whilst the champagnes that they produce have never been plentiful in quantity, they have distinguished themselves with the consistently superb quality throughout the entire range of champagnes produced. Remaining a family owned house, the Gosset family sold the business to the Cointreau family in 1994.

Starting with their flagship champagne, the superbly aged Grande Reserve multi-vintage, it is clear that they have sought to exceed all standards required by the region. Firstly, and most strikingly, the presentation is remarkable in heavy dark antique bottles that are unique to Gosset. Instead of aging this champagne for 3 years on lees before bottling, Gosset have aged this blend for four and half years. After bottling, this champagne is then aged a further 6 months in their cool cellars before they permit this champagne to be sold.

From the superbly smooth and well rounded flavours of the Grande Reserve to the elegance and perfume of the brilliant Grand Rose champagne to the incomparable Grand Millesime vintage it is clear that these champagnes have been conceived for the most demanding champagne enthusiast. Whilst the vintage champagnes are only released in the very best years, the cellaring capacity of Gosset champagnes in those select vintages is well documented. At Gosset malolactic fermentation is avoided to ensure sufficient acidity enabling a long evolution.