Etienne Bodet Saumur rouge Clos Durandiere 2022
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100% Cabernet Franc from a 1.3 ha plot planted in 1983 on hard Bathonian limestone from the Jurassic period (circa 168 million years ago). This is the same geological period as the Côte de Nuits and is a rare geology in Saumur, with only 20 known hectares planted. The topsoil here is shallow, only 30-60 cm and is of a clayey-sand or sandy loam texture with notable iron oxide.
Etienne’s principal goal is to soften (or ‘polish’ to use his term) the tannins of Cabernet Franc to produce a ‘refined, spiritual wine that is as moving as possible’. To this end he employs a partial maceration carbonique to promote an initial intracellular fermentation within the berries for up to a week before crushing. The wine is vinified with native yeasts and without sullphur additions, though Etienne does use carefully measured organic nitrogen to maintain healthy a healthy ferment and limit potential exposure to brettanomyces. Extraction is via a gentle infusion, without pump-overs or harsh plunging. Pressed to a mix of new and seasoned barrels (up to three years old) and matured for two years then assembled in tank for six months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a small sulphur addition (19 ppm total) and matured in bottle a further six months prior to release.
The resulting wine is as utterly distinctive as it is rivetting. Medium saturation of colour (less for 2022 than for his first 2020 vintage) with aromas of lavender, pot-pourri, rose petal and delicate red fruits hinting at fraise des bois. Ample intensity and length of flavours on the palate with a frame of bright vibrant fruit and remarkably fine and sophisticated tannins carried through to a long and expressive finish with perfectly balanced freshness. The aftertaste is long and hauntingly fine and appetising drawing you back to taste again. Such remarkably well managed tannins and intensity of fruit within a fine and refreshingly balanced structure.
Etienne Bodet is the 5th generation of his family working on the beautiful Jurassic limestone terroirs they own in Montreuil-Bellay in Saumur where they have been producing both sparkling and still wines for more than a century. An accomplished oenologist in his own right Etienne has worked with an amazing roll call of producers before striking out on his own in 2020.His family are not only wine growers for the well known Chateau de la Durandière label of still wines, his aunt also runs Louis de Grenelle, Saumur's largest independent sparkling producer. His god-father is none other than Romain Guiberteau, with whom he has worked recently as well. And to top it off, he has been on the winemaking team at the legendary Clos Rougeard since 2021.