Lucien Muzard Santenay 1er Cru Clos Faubard 2022

Variety: Pinot Noir
Country Region: France, Burgundy, Cote-de-Beaune
Appellation: Santenay Premier Cru

North of the Village, Clos Faubard sits up high, above Gravieres, where the slope climbs into scrubland. The soil here, has the same Bajocian marl limestone that is found in the Côte de Nuits and not found elsewhere in the Côte de Beaune, giving Faubard’s wine a distinct spicy minerality. Very red soil here, still with plenty of small stones. With so many fine premier cru sites to choose from at this estate it is this vineyard which we have consistently found to be our pick of the best representation of these sites, both for early enjoyment and for cellaring with confidence. The domaine, one of only three owners of this vineyard, has 1.47 hectares here and makes roughly 750 cases each year from vines mostly 60-70 years old. 40% whole bunch followed by 12 months elevage in 30% new barriques. Vibrant red fruit leads to a densely packed, mineral inflected palate of great purity and terrific length.

‘Clos Faubard has a very red soil, above the hard rock. 27 barrels worth, including some in foudre. A bright medium deep purple. The nose has a firmer darker fruit. There is a generous weight of dark raspberry fruit, some tannins, but easily enough fruit to cover them. Drink from 2027-2031.’ (88-90 points) Jasper Morris M.W., October 2023.

Nine generations of Muzards precede Claude and Herve, who today control Domaine Lucien Muzard across 16 ha of vineyards in Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and Pommard. The family can trace its roots back to 1645, but it was not until the two sons, Claude and Herve took over the domaine from Lucien in 1995 that it began bottling at the estate rather than selling to negociants. Today 85% of the production is red wine but the white wines are gaining in stature with several key premier cru parcels in Santenay being replanted with Chardonnay. Santenay borders Chassagne Montrachet to the north adjoining notable premier crus such as Morgeots, Les Embazees and Les Baudines. Clearly there is potential for white wines with much limestone apparent in a complex series of fractured geological faults where the Cote d'Or ends and turns the corner towards Maranges signalling the end of the Cote d'Or slope. Santenay contains a great variety of soil differences and vineyard expositions, the potential of which deserves discovery.

Reducing vine yields and adoption of some modern wine-making techniques has resulted in spotlessly pure, great value Burgundy. They started using small bins for harvesting, a vibrating sorting table and conveyor belts rather than pumps to keep crushing to an absolute minimum as well as acquiring a new temperature controlled fermentation facility with new wooden vats and a new precision controlled press. In 2005 they began managing the vineyard organically and ultimately gained certification for biodynamic farming in 2011. Following the incessant rains of spring 2012 however they relinquished this certification and today follow a lutte raisonee, or sustainable farming path.

They continue to plough their rows and shun any use of herbicides or pesticides, let alone chemical fertilizers. In the winery these days, more whole bunches are included, typically about a third, while there are no additions of yeast or enzymes. In tandem with the move to more whole-bunch, the extraction regime has moved away from punch-downs towards a gentler remontage (pump-over) approach, while elevage is moving towards both larger oak and a subtler new-oak influence. Indeed for the first time in vintage 2015, two large foudres were included in the elevage of the Maladiere. The reds are bottled unfined and with only a coarse filtration as required.